US: “Taliban Responsible For Casualties in Farah”
May 12 at 12:12pm by David Tate
A US statement just released points the blame at Taliban insurgents for the deaths and maiming of dozens of civilians with white phosphorus (WP) munitions. This is the latest in a PR blitz countering claims that the US military used WP against insurgents and civilians late last week.
KABUL, Afghanistan –An ongoing joint Afghan National Security Forces and Coalition forces investigation team found evidence Friday of non-combatant casualties caused by Taliban fighters’ actions in Farah province.
Investigators interviewed the Surgeon and staff of the Farah Hospital and the three doctors on duty on Tuesday. They treated 16 patients, five ANP and 11 civilians, for flash burns and small lacerations. Afghan doctors said injuries could have resulted from hand grenades or exploding propane tanks.
Local doctors also confirmed that the Taliban were fighting from the roof tops while forcing the locals to remain in their compounds. Locals receiving medical treatment repeated this information to the doctors several times. The doctors also received a call, while the investigators where present, indicating that the Taliban extremists had executed another civilian in the same village.
A large number of Taliban fighters, to include non-Afghans, consolidated on Ganj Abad and Grani villages Sunday, and demanded payments from villagers. The fighters executed three civilians to trigger a response from the Afghan Police that they could ambush.
“We regret the loss of any civilian life,” said Col. Greg Julian. “But we strongly condemn the brutality of the Taliban extremists deliberately targeting Afghan civilians and using them as human shields.”
At least nine children and one teacher at a girls’ school were injured when militants attacked an ISAF base in Kunar province yesterday morning with two rounds of indirect fire. A suicide bomber also killed 16 civilians and injured 31 others in Helmand late Friday.
US Says Taliban Uses White Phosphorus
May 11 at 9:09pm by David Tate
In response to international outrage over the US supposedly using White Phosphorus munitions in civilian areas, the Americans have released the following list of 44 insurgent attacks, or discovered caches, involving white phosphorus. The coalition denies using these munitions that cause severe, indiscriminate burns.
(U) Background: In response to claims that insurgents in Afghanistan are not using, nor have access to, white phosphorus (WP) munitions, ISAF RC-East conducted a summary database query, by which a total of 44 instances of reported enemy WP incidents were uncovered and declassified on 11 MAY 09. Thirty-eight of those occurred in RC-East and are released in this document. Our research also revealed six WP events that occurred in other ISAF regions; this list is available upon request from ISAF PAO press office at pressoffice@hq.isaf.nato.int.
(U) Discussion: Three means of white phosphorus use and access by insurgents can be identified: 1) improvised explosive devices, 2) indirect fire attacks, and 3) ordnance caches or UXO. It is notable that the enemy has stockpiled and used white phosphorus in attacks since 2003 and as recently as the week prior to this release. It should also be noted that these instances have occurred in nearly every province in RC-East, which demonstrates the wide availability of white phosphorus to insurgents. Finally, it is important to note that insurgent stockpiles do not necessarily derive from old Soviet-era left-behind stocks; the white phosphorus munitions found in these 38 events have their origins in a wide range of countries. Also, the vast majority of white phosphorus rounds found in listed caches were determined to be in serviceable condition.
1. Improvised Explosive Devices using White Phosphorus:
(U) 1.1 On 5 FEB 2009, an ISAF unit observed a white phosphorus detonation, determined to be a 107mm WP rocket IED, near a civilian district center in Sabari District, Khost province.
(U) 1.2 On 15 SEP 2008, an ISAF patrol conducting road clearance discovered an IED rigged with one 120mm white phosphorus round, in the Sabari District of Khost province.
(U) 1.3 In MAR 2008, an ISAF convoy in Mandozai District, Khost province, was struck by a vehicular suicide IED, wounding one service member and one local national. Investigators later determined that the IED charge contained both white phosphorus and high explosives.
(U) 1.4 On 9 FEB 2008, a white phosphorus round exploded in the vicinity of an ISAF forward operating base, in Behsood District, Nangarhar province.
(U) 1.5 On 10 JAN 2008, an ISAF EOD team destroyed a Russian 122mm white phosphorus round placed in the vicinity of an ISAF forward operating base in Nader Shah Kwot District, Khost province.
(U) 1.6 On 1 DEC 2007, Coalition forces on patrol discovered an 81mm white phosphorus mortar round set in the vicinity of a convoy in Waza Khwa District, Paktika province.
(U) 1.7 On 23 MAR 07, an ISAF EOD team discovered and defused a 122mm white phosphorus mortar round emplaced on the side of a road in Gardez District, Paktya province.
2. Indirect Fire Attacks using White Phosphorus:
(U) 2.1 On 7 MAY 2009, an ISAF outpost reported receiving two rounds of indirect white phosphorus fire, in Charkh District, Logar province.
(U) 2.2 On 11 AUG 2008, ISAF forces on patrol located a 107mm white phosphorus rocket tube that insurgents had prepositioned to fire in the direction of a nearby ISAF forward operating base in Goshta District, Nangarhar province.
(U) 2.3 On 28 JUN 2008, insurgents fired a white phosphorus rocket at an ISAF outpost in Bermel District, Paktika province.
(U) 2.4 On 4 JAN 2008, insurgents fired nine white phosphorus rounds at an ISAF forward operating base in Darreh-ye PichDistrict, Kunar province.
(U) 2.5 On 21 NOV 2007, insurgents fired at least one white phosphorus rocket at an ISAF forward operating base in Zadran District, Paktya province.
(U) 2.6 On 2 OCT 2007, insurgents fired two 107mm white phosphorus rockets at an ISAF forward operating base in Gelan District, Ghazni province.
(U) 2.7 On 4 AUG 2007, insurgents launched an indirect fire attack on an ISAF outpost, using HE and white phosphorus rounds in Dara Pech District, Kunar province.
(U) 2.8 On 25 MAY 2007, an insurgent mortar team fired two white phosphorus rounds at an ISAF bridge construction site in the Darreh-ye Pich District, Konar province.
(U) 2.9 On 25 MAY 2007, insurgents bombarded an ISAF outpost with 10 rounds of white phosphorus, in Darreh-ye Pich District, Kunar province.
(U) 2.10 On 13 MAY 2007, insurgents fired five white phosphorus mortar rounds at an ISAF outpost in Chawki District, Kunar province.
(U) 2.11 On 11 APR 2007, insurgents fired five white phosphorus mortar rounds at an Afghan National Army compound in Watah Pur District, Konar province.
(U) 2.12 On 26 MAR 2004, Afghan locals intercepted and drove off an insurgent mortar team setting up a group of rockets in the vicinity of an ISAF forward operating base. Coalition responders later destroyed the rockets, including one white phosphorus round, in Khost District of Khost province.
3. Insurgent Caches and UXO Finds of White Phosphorus:
(U) 3.1 On 20 JAN 2009, ISAF troops discovered a diverse weapons and ammunition cache that included three 82mm white phosphorus mortar rounds, in Chowreh District, Oruzgan province.
(U) 3.2 On 24 NOV 2008, an ISAF EOD team located and collected a weapons cache including two 107mm white phosphorus rockets, in Pol-e ‘alam District, Logar province.
(U) 3.3 On 06 JAN 07, an ISAF patrol detected and destroyed an unexploded ordnance find that included one 122mm white phosphorus round in Terezai District, Khost province.
(U) 3.4 On 27 OCT 2006, an ISAF EOD team found a major ordnance cache that included six 122mm white phosphorus rounds in Bagram District, Parwan province.
(U) 3.5 On 23 DEC 2005, a Coalition unit discovered a sizable cache of ammunition and ordnance, including six 82mm white phosphorus mortar rounds, in Kohe Safi District, Parwan province.
(U) 3.6 On 12 DEC 2005, Afghan National Police found a cached mortar assembly, including one white phosphorus round, in Jaguri District, Ghazni province.
(U) 3.7 On 9 JUL 2005, an ISAF unit discovered hundreds of rounds of cached ordnance, including 27 rounds of 82mm white phosphorus mortar ammunition, in Qalandar District, Khost province.
(U) 3.8 On 26 MAR 2005, an Afghan National Police patrol reported a cache of various munitions, which ISAF responders identified and removed, including one 82mm white phosphorus mortar round, in Jalrez District, Wardak province.
(U) 3.9 On 19 MAR 2005, an ISAF unit found a cache of ordnance and IED-making materials including five 82mm white phosphorus mortar rounds, in Sharana District, Paktika province.
(U) 3.10 On 13 MAR 2005, Coalition troops discovered a cache of various ordnance including one 82mm white phosphorus round in Shahid E-Hassas District, Oruzgan province.
(U) 3.11 On 12 MAR 2005, local nationals led an ISAF unit to a cache of ordnance, including eight 107mm white phosphorus rockets, in Mosa Khail District, Khost province.
(U) 3.12 On 19 FEB 2005, an ISAF unit received a tip of a weapons cache in Khogyani District, Nangarhar province. The search revealed IED-making materials as well as two 82mm white phosphorus rounds.
(U) 3.13 On 1 OCT 2004, an ISAF unit discovered an ordnance cache containing an 82mm white phosphorus mortar round and other munitions of Chinese, Russian, Iranian, British origin, in Waza Khwa District, Paktika province.
(U) 3.14 On 13 SEP 2004, an ISAF unit located a cache of ordnance and weapons of various origin, including one round of Russian white phosphorus mortar ammunition, in Orgun District, Paktika province.
(U) 3.15 On 24 MAY 2004, an ISAF unit discovered an ordnance cache that included one 81mm and two 122mm white phosphorus rounds, in Zarghunshahr District, Paktika province.
(U) 3.16 On 5 APR 2004, an ISAF EOD team destroyed multiple weapons caches that included four white phosphorus rounds of various national origin, in Sarowbi District, Kabul province.
(U) 3.17 On 15 MAR 2004, Afghan security forces led ISAF troops to a large cache containing several hundred rounds of ordnance, including six 107mm white phosphorus rounds, in Qareh Bagh District, Ghazni province.
(U) 3.18 On 22 APR 2003, Coalition personnel located an ordnance cache that included four 82mm white phosphorus mortar rounds in Khar Konar District, Konar province.
(U) 3.19 On 6 FEB 2003, ISAF units, following a local tip, destroyed a 107mm white phosphorus rocket found in Bermel District, Paktika province.
Missing Soldier Found in Kunar
May 6 at 8:08am by David Tate
The body of a soldier missing since a May 1 attack in Kunar Province has been found. SSgt. William Vile of Philidelphia was killed with two other Americans and two Latvian soldiers when their small outpost was attacked by an overwhelming Taliban force in Nishagam, Ghaziabad district. Three Afghan soldiers also died and as many as 14 remain missing. The men were part of an international mentoring team assigned to train the Afghan National Army.
General Update
May 5 at 8:08am by David Tate
I know it seems as though I have fallen off the planet in the past month. Weird how that always happens after an embed. Regardless, let me quickly catch you up.
I made it home from Afghanistan in great health and spirit. Unfortunately, a month later, I was fired from my NBC affiliate in a year long blood letting session that most broadcast companies are currently embroiled in. To say I was upset is an understatement. I enjoyed my job, my company and the city I live in. Now I am almost completely broke (from Afghanistan), without a job and a serious need to most likely sell my just-refinanced house and move. Understand that Roanoke, Virginia is not a major metropolis and jobs in my field are limited.
Still in a daze, I went home and immediately signed onto a TV job website to see where my prospects might be and wouldn’t you know the one-man band reporter job, for ROANOKE, was available at the ABC affiliate. Best part is, the News Director AND General Manager were my first ND and GM in this business back in 1996. Weirder yet, it was at the NBC affiliate I just left!!
Long story short, I have been busy getting used to the three year contract I just signed. In my free time, I am working hard to get the Getty submission in the mail. Beyond that, I am still working on videos from the embed and will have something available soon. Hell, I haven’t even done my taxes yet…
So, while I work on Afghanistan stuff, here’s a link to my latest story at my “day job”. Enjoy.
Mail Call
Apr 21 at 2:02pm by David Tate
In January and February 2009, US Marines with India Co., 3rd Battalion, Eighth Marines launched two operations to clear a road, called Route 515, that connected two district center in Farah Province, Afghanistan. The two cities, Deleram and Bakwa, are the hubs of social and financial activity for thousands of Afghans. The Marines objective is to open this road to allow people to get their goods to market and to stop Taliban and smugglers from making their way to and from Iran.
One of the first signs of success though is in the shape of brownies and smiles as the US mail uses this new route to keep troop morale high in a difficult environment.
Final Diary Post From Embed ‘09
Apr 20 at 10:10pm by David Tate
Dave and Abdullah at the Mustafa Hotel
My final night in Kabul was perfect. I got some good eats from the hotel restaurant, we ordered a bottle of Stoli and spent time with some American contractors who had ventured our way for the night.
For the most part, we all just hung out talking and playing pool, which is really all you can do unless there’s work to be done. It was during this time I realized just how messed up the procurement system for these wars truly is.
I crept in on the backside of a conversation where one contractor was complaining to another about how a new company has a contract for $75,000 per month to maintain their six generators.
“Hell, we gotta guy on staff already that can do that,” said one of the men.
None of them could figure out why so much was being paid for so little service, especially when there was already someone on staff with the qualifications.
That’s when I chimed in about a program General Motors used back in the 50’s and 60’s to improve efficiency.
“What if there was a program in place that would reward people for blowing the whistle,” I asked.
“Hah,” replied one of the contractors. “They’d all pack up and go home. They already have their money.”
Just to reinforce this: Did you all know that Kellog Brown and Root, one of the biggest profiteers in both wars and billed an American company, is actually located offshore. In other words: They don’t even pay taxes! They make a killing off the wars and then get even richer by not paying taxes (robbing the very people making them rich). You really want to get pork under control? Get serious about accountability and oversight in Afghanistan and Iraq. I don’t even want to research how much has been stolen from the US taxpayers… I get too angry.
Thursday Febraury 26th
Packing for the trip home was a bit easier on the way out. While at the Mustafa I met a freelance photographer who seems to embody much of the spirit that drives me. While talking to her, she revealed that she wanted to do some embedding with military forces, but had no body armor. So we struck a deal that saw me leaving both armor and kevlar for her to use in exchange for a donation (and my gear back) once she returns (see, I’m not always an asshole). Of course, since this equipment is my #2 investement, she will also be responsible for it in the event it is ruined or stolen. Interestingly enough she is a grandmother. Check out Janet Killeen’s travels here: Zones of Conflict.
Another blog to follow into the fighting season is a young gent named Connor Powell. Connor is a VMI graduate who spent some time in local news before selling his life off to the adventure of freelance war coverage. You can track his travels here: Conor Powell.
Heading Home
I got a ride to the airport from Abdullah, the guy who runs the Mustafa. We drove by my old house and it really was a bit surreal leaving again, but I was ready to go. I had less than $10 in my pocket and couldn’t get out quick enough.
Other than getting searched eight times at the Kabul Airport, the trip to Dubai was painless. Once there, the plan was to try to switch flights and make it home a day earlier. That didn’t work out because only one plane leaves Dubai for Atlanta per night… and it is usually full. No different this time.
Knowing that a hotel in Dubai would cost me a ton of money, I was in the market for something economical. So imagine my luck when I ran into some other Americans in the same position as me. One guy was on vacation and heading to Virginia Beach; another was in Dubai trying to make a gold deal that fell through. The three of us ended up getting a hotel room, that split three ways, cost $105 each!! Best part is that I took the floor because I had sleeping gear. Imagine that: Spending the night in a ritzy hotel in Dubai, only to sleep on the floor.
Friday February 27th
None of us really had any money to spend in Dubai, so instead of taking a taxi around the emirate taking in the sights, we all chose to go to the airport and wait it out… 15 hours worth of waiting! Whatever… 17 hours after that, I’d be home.
This about wraps up the diary portion of this trip. I still have a bunch of videos to get out, so check back often!
The People of Afghanistan
Apr 14 at 10:10am by David Tate
US Marines question a suspected Taliban leader
A year before the Iraq War started, I ventured off toward the Honduran/Nicaraguan border in what would be my first excursion into a volatile area of the world as an adventure traveler/journalist. I’d just lost my job as a TV reporter and wanted to expand. I wanted to do more with my profession. And true to my nature, I wanted to do it my way.
Back then, the concept “Battlefield Tourist” included humanitarian issues like the “War on Poverty” and ecological issues like “War on the Aral Sea”, so when I went to Honduras, the idea was to find basic, ground level stories dealing with poverty. In doing so, I found myself taking all sorts of pictures of children. I learned that if you can make the children laugh and smile, the adults around them would do the same - regardless if you spoke a common language.
The next thing you know, I have hundreds of pictures of children and “regular people” from all over the world, and Afghanistan is no exception.
Below is the final of four photo slide shows from my most recent embeds in Farah and Helmand Provinces in southern Afghanistan, as well as some images from folks I ran into in Kabul. I run these photos to give you an idea of the people our friends, neighbors and relatives are fighting and dying for.
I seriously hope you have enjoyed this series. If so, please consider a donation, via PayPal to dtate38@cox.net
DT
A Battlefield Tour of Musa Qala District Center
Apr 13 at 3:03pm by David Tate
3/8 Marine on patrol in Musa Qala, Helmand Province
In mid-February I was invited to go to Musa Qala, Helmand Province and embed with 3/8 Marines who make up the Police Mentoring Team (PMT) there. These Marines come from a variety of places throughout the battalion, including from the battalion commanders own Personal Security Detatchment.
The mission here is basically a legacy mission that began when the preceding Marine unit came here to help pacify the district center. Since then, 3/8 Marines have been strict on their mission of training and mentoring the Afghan National Police who secure the District Center. For 7km in each direction, British and Afghan troops secure the rest of the district center. Beyond that, the territory belongs to the Taliban.
A Battlefield Tour of Musa Qala District Center
Note: After further review, I pulled two images that showed overlook of ISAF bases that could pose a security risk. The other concerns were addressed and deemed fit to publish.
DT
A Battlefield Tour of Musa Qala South
Mar 29 at 8:08am by David Tate
Here’s a set of photos I took with British and Afghan troops as we probed the front line south of Musa Qala District Center, Helmand Province in February.
A Battlefield Tour of Musa Qala South
The units involved are 3/3 205th (ANA) and 1st Bn. “The Rifles” (UK).
Back in Kabul
Mar 21 at 12:12pm by David Tate
Kabul from the top of the Mustafa Hotel
Sunday, February 22nd – Kandahar Air Field
Once at KAF I could lay all my stuff out to determine what would continue on with me and what wouldn’t. At this point in the trip, all dirty clothes are gone right off the top. It seems I’m always organizing my stuff. When you travel light, I guess that would be expected. I’m always looking for ways to pack my gear as efficiently as possible, which leads to me never remembering where I put things. That, of course, leads to me always going through my gear in a ferocious cycle. Funny thing is: I have thrown away all sorts of things and my bag is still packed to the maximum and it is still as heavy as ever.
The good news is that my flight back to Kabul is scheduled for the following morning, and with three extra days left in my trip, I should make it to my plane on time come Thursday. In the meantime, I spent most of my time on the boardwalk, enjoying real coffee and the wireless internet service, which allowed me to get plenty of work done.
Later that evening, I met up with one of my Public Affairs Officers to talk about the goods and bads of my embedment. I’m not sure what they do with the information, although I would imagine they use it to better accommodate journalists in the future, as well as use it in an ongoing “file” on said journalist. Regardless, I try to provide constructive suggestions that will help the embedment process grow.
As mentioned before, my embed was a relative success. I was able to hook up with Marines in Farah and Helmand, as well as get a bit of time with the Brits and Afghans. My goal in country is to get as many different images as I can. The wider the variety, the better. Because I contribute to a historical archive, this is a must to be successful.
Of course the downside, which was NOT a big deal at all, was not being able to go the the specific area of Helmand I wanted to go. The fact is, I have a goal as do the Marines who are hosting me, and that sometimes isn’t the same goal. In this case, I wanted to see a front line and the Marines wanted me to see what a majority of their Marines were doing. That is fair, but as I explained to the Marines, they are not my employers. However, as the Marines explained to me, “If we didn’t want you here, you wouldn’t be here.” Fair enough. That basically sums up why the embed process comes under fire from journalist watchdogs.
Monday, February 23rd
One of the PAOs came by to pick me up at 1000 for a 1230 flight to Kabul. That flight was cancelled, but I did make the next flight a few hours later.
The plane was packed with people and gear; no room for a single person more. The passengers included soldiers from at least a dozen countries, which really typifies the world effort going on here. The trip is just over an hour with the last 30 minutes of the trip being unbearable as my morning coffee decided it was time to make its exit.
Stepping off the plane in Kabul was a shock of sorts. Having boarded the plane with just a T-shirt on, I really wasn’t expecting sleet when I got off, but it was coming down good in Kabul that day, not that I cared as I looked for the closest porta-john.
For the next two nights I stayed at the military base located next to Kabul International Airport (KIA), as I was in no hurry to go back into town and Kabul hotel life. Besides, I wanted to hook up with TF Phoenix to get some video of Afghan boot camp, but the PAO was not very good at returning email requests.
The guy that billets the transients told me I had to go by Wednesday because all the bunks were needed, which was better than nothing. After all, there’s decent food, wireless internet and a night club where I could enjoy my first beer in several weeks; Becks has never tasted so good!! And only $1.20 to boot.
Wednesday, February 25th
I spent the previous day working on a post about kidnappings in Kabul, and the region in general, which left me very paranoid about going back into Kabul, alone, with all my gear. I actually gave my wife a deadline for me to contact her, that if passed, she should inform the US Embassy that I was missing.
Currently, at least two western journalists (including a top-tier print journalist), and their local companions, are missing as well as a French aide worker, so all I could think about was the walking bag of money I must look like to some enterprising criminals. While Taliban are a threat here, I more fear the desperate, evil person looking for a ransom.
Which reminds me. In February I pulled a post regarding the major journalist missing (read above) at the behest of family and friends of the victim. I’ve also been informed that my future presence in Kabul would be met cooly by my colleagues for disclosing this kidnapping publicly. Regardless, while I will not name names out of respect for the family, let it be known my stance on this situation.
A Lesson in Ethics
When a journalist goes off to interview the Taliban, they take on inherent risks. Several western journalists have recently tried; some have been successful, others have not. One who has not is a Canadian woman being held in Pakistan after trying to report from the tribal region. The other is a well known investigative reporter who most recently worked for one of the biggest papers in the country. He disappeared in November trying to meet the Taliban south of Kabul.
Since his disappearance, the western press as a whole has decided not to report the incident. I am not part of this “agreement”, so I do not know the reasons for the self-censorship, but judging from the response I got following my post, it seems that money and the man’s life are the key concerns.
“I have heard it will cost a fortune to get him out,” said one Kabul journalist who has been one of the few to openly report the story. Everyone wants to be quiet so not to upset the negotiation process, which involves the lives of three men; three men who made the decision that led to their capture.
And that’s where the money comes into play? I’m just guessing, but I assume the more publicity there is (and there would be) the higher the ransom. This is where I just can’t let it go. Let us just say a ransom is paid (the Canadian woman’s kidnappers want two million).
The question I have is: How many people will die from the weapons bought with the ransom money? Seriously, an untold number of farmers, soldiers, teachers, etc… will die because of ransom money paid to these criminals. People who did not make a very poor choice of trying to get a face-to-face interview with the Taliban.
While I hope these journalists get out alive and write books about their ordeal, if it is done with ransom money, the blood of many innocents will be on their bill in debt. The journalists keeping hush hush about this need to keep that in mind.
Of interesting note: One of the journalists who is ignoring the story is a famed writer, on the Afghan beat, and colleague of the missing. Ironically, a week before her friend went missing, she wrote a large story on the rise of kidnappings in the region and focused on the kidnapping of the French aide worker who was taken the day before (who is still missing).
End of Rant and Moving On
So after getting rid of anything extra, I slung my bag over my shoulder and headed out the front gate, not knowing if I’d be able to get a taxi or not. Last time I walked out this gate in 2004, I hitched a ride with a truckload of Afghan Police (much to their delight), however things have changed here and I wasn’t sure what to expect. Fortunately, luck was on my side and I had a taxi within just a few minutes and was on my way back to the Mustafa Hotel for my last night in Afghanistan.
I was glad to be back at the Mustafa. They are extremely nice, catering and fair. While there are no armed guards, there are a dozen machine gun-toting cops just outside the front door manning a checkpoint. So other than it being a little chilly (the heaters they provide seem deadly to me, carbon monoxide-wise), I love the place, as does my wallet ($30 p/night).
I spent much of this day looking for small gifts to bring back to certain people. My primary thinking was to get silk scarves for my wife. So I headed down Chicken Street to the main drag, in the area, and headed toward Shar-a-Now where my favorite carpet shop used to be. I hoped it, and my friend Fahrad, would still be there.
Finding the shop was easy and walking in was like walking in five years ago. Looked exactly the same, as did Fahrad. ”You look the same, Daud.” We did some catching up as we sat on the floor, drinking green tea and looking through the scarves. I had $50 to spend and wanted to do the best I could, in the sense of numbers and colors. In the end I found a great lot and ended up with seven silk scarves. Not bad at all (and yes, Heidi loved them). Thanking Fahrad, I headed out onto the street.
Daud’s Militia
“We are your bodyguards,” they would say. The hotel owner said they always say that to westerners. I can’t go anywhere without getting an army of children following me. I think some of them genuinely like me, but for the most part, they want bakeesh… money. This time in Kabul, the begging was stifling. I would literally have 10 kids following me as I warded off burqa-clad women attacking from the front, all holding the saddest looking babies. “Badcha,” they would say, which means, “baby”. I would spend 15 bucks every time I left the hotel. I gave money, bought cakes, food, medicine. I even gave away my cell phone. It was unbelievable to the point that I didn’t leave the hotel but a few times after that.
That’s ok because I would spend the evening having a nice party at the Mustafa, with everything I needed right there.
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